TO YOUR MORPHO
TO YOUR MORPHO
The etymology of the skirt comes from “djubba” in Arabic which means “ long woolen undergarment”. Its length varies, we go from the mini- skirt to the long floor-length skirt .
Skirts have been worn since prehistoric times as the easiest and most comfortable way to cover the lower body. They were the star outfit for men as well as women in all the ancient cultures of the Near East as well as Egypt.
The Sumerians of Mesopotamia wore kaunakes, a fur skirt attached to a belt. Ancient Egyptian clothing was primarily made of linen . For the most noble, the articles of their dressing room were woven and pleated materials with a unique know-how.
In the Bronze Age, in the southern parts of Western and Central Europe, garments that covered the whole body resembling garments were preferred. However, in Northern Europe people also wore skirts and blouses.
In the Middle Ages, the lower part of men's dresses was much shorter than that of women. They were wide and often pleated or gored to make riding more comfortable . The armor of the knights consisted of a short metal skirt under the cuirass.
In African and Eastern cultures, it is a mixed garment, of all times.
As far as Western countries are concerned, the history of this one is rather tumultuous. From Greek and Roman antiquity to the Middle Ages, all genders wore the tunic, more or less long . The interest in dissociating male and female clothing appeared in the 15th century, skirts and petticoats as well as dresses were associated with the female sex and banned from male wardrobes.
It was in the 19th century that this piece experienced its first major transformations, mainly in terms of form and practicality. It goes from a fairly narrow shape to a wider petticoat shape.
Crinoline models from the 1830s to 1860s marked the status of ladies. First superimposed by petticoats , then invented in the shape of a "cage" of hoops in order to give a very voluminous shape to the outfit.
In 1985, Jean-Paul GAUTIER proposed a model for men with the skirt - pants but it had no success because this current of thought was not democratized. In the collective mind, the male model is associated with homosexuality.
The 2000s raise a new issue around this article , among teenagers, a lady wearing a skirt is considered an easy girl. Since the 60s, the pants have become the object of activism for women , today the mini-skirt takes its place.
The sport not only changed the length of stockings and made miniskirts very popular, but also made trousers shorter. The variations of the shortened models have multiplied.
The miniskirt thus becomes the symbol of the liberation of the female body in a society marked by sexual liberation. Shocking, often described as provocative or even sexy, its port goes against the patriarchal society.
In the 1970s, the skirt rubbed shoulders with other models, in particular the bohemian style, loose and tightened at the waist, a model for sports or even comfort and the midi length. They are available in many fabrics in cotton, veil and linen , printed skirt or strict black or jeans are all the rage.
The etymology of the pants comes from "Pantaleone", an actor of the Commedia dell'arte who inspired this form that we know him today. This term more generally designates everything that dresses the lower body by separating each leg .
It has existed since antiquity in the breasts of Eastern civilizations, particularly among the Persians, under the name of “anaxyride”. In the West, there was a late arrival under the influence of the Germans and then the Gallo-Romans. It was called “Bracae”. It will be under the 19th century that it will really democratize with the male sex.
The pants go beyond class conflicts and reach the highest echelons of society. However, it still has to go beyond the patriarchal system and the inequalities between men and women .
The historian, Denis Bruna, refers to "a decree which was promulgated by the prefect of police of Paris on November 7, 1800. Informed that many women cross-dress and desire to wear men's clothes, he promulgates a decree according to which if a woman wants to opt for trousers , she must ask the police headquarters for "permission to cross-dress" with a particular reason, medical or professional".
It is the order of 1800 of the Paris Police Prefecture which prohibits women from adopting so-called "masculine" cuts .
Those who wear pants are considered transvestites, they are not supposed to wear panties because a woman "who wears panties " violates the "patriarchal order".
Women first began to wear cotton trousers which resembled panty-like lingerie under dresses in the 1790s-1800s. It was above all an undergarment, partly visible panties that could be seen under long dresses.
The pants therefore began to be worn by women from the 19th century, but they remain hidden by the dress, the main piece of a woman 's dressing room since the Renaissance.
It was at the time of the Directory (between 1795-1799) which honored the so-called "Greek" fashion where they wore extremely thin dresses, so they had to put on a kind of very tight pants underneath, flesh- colored , which is similar to leggings but not visible. These are semi- panties pants that give birth to the first women's underwear.
The first feminists claimed loud and clear the wearing of women's pants because they were more comfortable , loose and less restrictive given the number of layers in women's outfits and therefore hindered mobility.
There are trades that did not allow to be exercised with certain outfits and particularly cumbersome dresses, and therefore access to these trades by women has accelerated the arrival of these stockings in women's wardrobes.
Some women have managed to ignore it, such as the American feminist, Amelia Bloomer, who invented the baggy and loose pants , the bloomer, loose pants that contributed to a real change in standards and representations of clothing among ladies around the world.
After the First World War, the avant-garde icons Coco Chanel and Marlène Dietrich imposed wide trousers for women in their collections. The cultural revolution of 1960 made it possible to discover and include the flowing pants as the main element of the female wardrobe. Jeans have also established themselves as a must-have in the women's wardrobe.
Today, the pants have become the essential of our locker rooms available in very different cuts: Straight or loose like a harem pants, cool with an elastic waist, stretchy , fluid , printed ; casual style, chic , comfort ; black , white , green , pink , blue , camel or black ; fabrics such as linen , cotton or denim , all shapes and colors are available to us and for all body types.
Elastic technical mesh leggings have also developed well with the democratization of yoga and jogging.
From the English "short" which means short , it is a special variant of trousers, a kind of cropped trousers . The most common length of this product is mid-thigh. In the 1920s, little boys adopted this stocking. It was called " short panties ".
Women have worn it only since the 1930s as sportswear in stretch elastic mesh for tennis and then for the beach .
It is now the favorite trendy outfit for the holidays, it has been democratized since the 1950s.
We rarely associate this essential accessory of our summer with elegance. But that has not always been the case. In the 1950s, Lauren Bacall, Marilyn Monroe and Jackie Kennedy displayed themselves with this iconic stocking, and this, in the greatest elegance.
You have to choose your model carefully with your morphology :
The short cotton model: This is a flagship product in our summer wardrobe, whatever your waist size.
straight or flared and in all colors. It is worn in stretch cotton, the favorite material for this product, or very fluid and light with an elastic band or even in jeans.
The baggy : for thin women with low hips, 2000s in khaki with a printed top for a cool style.
The Treillis : characteristic sportswear with many pockets, suitable for slim women or slender silhouettes. Very practical, seasonal and very comfortable for hiking lovers. You can swap the cotton model for an equally popular denim version, for a relaxed and casual look.
The mesh version is rather reserved for sports activities
The city Bermuda shorts have become the new normal for a more casual city outfit while remaining chic in a cropped tailor style. It is usually made of linen or cotton . For a professional casual daytime style or for an evening , swap your work trousers with this item that will serve you elegantly in hot weather. This summer the colors white , blue and green are top trend this summer for this product.
Since the 1980s, Bermuda shorts have become essential in our wardrobe: both chic and relaxed, they are also very comfortable and practical. Choose Bermuda shorts if you haven't yet adopted them to wear black or navy blue at work or more colorful in the evening.